Apologies for my lack of contact. I had written the previous blog before I set out on our hiking trip but was so rushed that I didn't have time to publish it. The rushing also made me foolishly purchase size ten rather than size eleven boots (you know what they say ladies...) and also the most impractical sleeping bag in the world. But I digress. I took a ferry over Puget Sound to Bainbridge with Ashley and her friend Jeanie. Really were some great views of both the Seattle skyline and the dominating Mt. Ranier, a still active volcano.
When we arrived on the other side, after I had mistakenly tripped up a child on board (honest!), we met Tim, a landscape photographer, keen hiker and wonderful host. Having realised how hideously unprepared we were he fixed us up with some equipment and showed us a local wood with some great trees - a brief taster of what was to come. When we were all set we began to head for the coast, picking up "Barefoot" Jake along the way: a local hiking blogger who was as nice as he was hungover.
After a long drive and taking in some local scenery - including the small town of Forks, where those wonderfully written 'Twilight' books are based - we came to the wilderness beach at Rialto where we were set to spend the night. It was almost dark so we took a mile or so hike along the shore, where driftwood was scattered like confetti across the sand. We found a great camping spot, ate our food and I settled down for the night in my 'Twin Peaks' tent for a cosy nights sleep.
The following day we set off for Cape Johnson, trekking through 'the hole in the wall' and over sharp and sleek rocks that were teeming with crabs and starfish. The weather was great, which is a rare thing in Washington, and I was soon developing that Englishman abroad look (sunburn for want of a better word). We spent most of the day exploring the stretch of beach, and despite it being a Sunday we saw no more than five people all day. Deer ran and courted along the shore while our fire roared, fog drifted in across the treeline and when the conversation died down then only the waves could be heard. My words on a simple blog can't do justice to how beautiful everything was.
After a night where 'Twin Peaks' collapsed in on me and I half slid out my tent, we began the hike back to our car; only after we had watched a giant sea-lion make his way back to the ocean. We were soon heading inland again and on the advice of Barefoot, we took in the altogether different sights of Forks (a sign informed us on the treaty-line that the vampire threat level was still critical. Bella). He took us to a bizarre diner: surrounded by churches, a midget wandered the streets and everyone inside looked a little too familiar. He recommended a breakfast not featured on the menu; southern biscuits, hash browns, egg, sausage gravy, cheese and jalapeno hot sauce. I definitely earned his high-five for finishing it (Rule Brittania!).
I was soon walking off those many, many calories in the Hoh Rainforest. It really was spectacular. Giant trees were draped in liquorice fern and hanging moss, grass snakes wove their way across the trail and the smell of cedar was intoxicating. The blisters I had accumulated meant that I had decided to walk the trail in just my socks and I enjoyed the freedom to move around and feel every stone and stick on the path. We took a lot of photographs, and I realise that this blog won't be able to show off all of them, so check out my instagram account (PLUG ALERT!). I will also hook you up with Ashley's, seeing as she is a wonderful photographer and about as close to competition as I've had when snapping away on my phone.
Eventually we wound our way to a sandy bank on the Hoh river itself, and made our camp for the night. The stars came out and a crescent moon showed itself before sinking behind yet another spectacular mountain. We got a great 'white-man' fire going and also managed to find a tree-stump that was glowing in the dark (termites, nuclear testing or Barefoot's ancestors, we weren't sure. If I come back with gills or the power of flight, that's probably why). It was a really wonderful spot for our last night, and Tim slept under the stars for the full effect.
He probably regretted that decision at around three a.m when the first real rain we had faced hit. 'Twin Peaks' kept me dry as a bone, though, and again I slept soundly. Soon sfr packing up in the drizzle we were hiking again, and again I favoured the Barefoot method. Interestingly Jake, besides singing R. Kelly along the trail, didn't actually walk barefoot. Instead he favoured some interesting shoes that looked more like socks. Just saying. Check his blog out though, because he is a great guy and leads a life in the outdoors that would make many people back home very envious.
We arrived back at the car and found an elk sitting nonchalantly across from us. I rested my weary feet in the car while we winged our way back to Tim's place. Me, Jeanie and Ash then cooked a big meal (including my attempt at southern biscuits, which were more akin to dry scones), and we settled by a warm fire to trade stories and miss the outdoors. It has been a truly fantastic experience, and like most of the great parts of this trip, totally spontaneous. I definitely have to take this space to thank Tim, who as well as being a wonderful photographer is also an incredibly kind and generous host. His guidance and knowledge of the surroundings was priceless.
Our whole group was great though and again I feel sad to be moving on. I'm sat now on the ferry back to Seattle at around seven-thirty in the morning, preparing to collect my stuff and hurrying off to Portland. I don't know what will await me there but a hot shower and hotter coffee would certainly be welcome. As was the case with Chicago, this is a part of the world where I could really see myself at home in. I'll be back in Seattle within a week too to finally meet my fellow traveller, Alex, so all is not lost. I hope you're all well and thanks for your patience while I have been out in the wilderness. I'll write again when I hit Portland and resemble a functioning human being once more. I'll also post those links to more photos as soon as I can. Auf wiedersehn!
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