What I'm getting up to...

A highly original and well thought out title to let the dear reader get a rough idea of what I'm getting up to over the next few days. Why? Because my trip is about to reach an important juncture: as of tomorrow I will no longer be a lone traveller. Weeks of pining and bitter thoughts as I have wandered lonely as a cloud, all gone. I am meeting good old Alex Stevens in the city of Seattle.

I jest about the loneliness of course. I mean, if I could have it my own way I would jump on a plane, run at lightening speed and hopefully make it back to Chesterfield in time to beat the rush hour. However, I feel obliged now that I've bought a car with Alex, so I guess I'll have to just drive to California and back. I hate my life.

Yesterday was nice and relaxed, and I went to the Hopworks Urban Brewery for a gigantic amount of food and some amazing beers with Travis. If I was to say that three beers, a bowl of Cajun chips, a minestrone soup, two pork sliders and a mixed meat grinder cost me under £20 with a big tip then you'll realise why I'm in a pretty good part of the world. We took the party back to the hostel and got a few people talking and drinking, though the strange mix of people here meant that an old man in just his boxers told us he needed to sleep...at ten o'clock.

In reality, that early night was just what I needed, and I'm now sat in the common room, full of bagels and feeling calm. I'm going to head downtown later, after checking out a few thrift stores and some bookshops. Tomorrow I'm catching the Greyhound back to Seattle, where I'll be meeting Alex. Darl the car is feeling a little worse for wear so he may get held up a little. I'm heading across the water to Tim's house for a bit of a gathering tomorrow night which should be great, and then after that we should be hitting the road. I've amassed plenty of contacts so hopefully as we journey down and back again we will utilise them and keep meeting more cool Americans. I'm off for a coffee, catch you later!

Don't go chasing waterfalls...

Great song, another great trip. Luckily I didn't listen to that advice, and me, Ash and Jeanie did seek out some of the other incredible waterfalls that are scattered all over the Columbia River Gorge area. We also stopped off on a closed road near to the enormous Mount Hood. It was deathly silent up there and snow could still be found on the side of the road. Sadly, there were no bears loitering but we did get some good shots (see below).

We stopped off at a typically American, typically weird diner for some typically greasy, carb-ridden food. The television in the background even had a feature on Kate Middleton: what a wonderful reminder of all that I've left behind! After more driving we came to 'The Bridge of the Gods,' which had a name that was a little more impressive than the sum of its parts. We did meet a guy photographing the ugly side of America, though, and of course he was English. The amount of people I have struck up bizarre conversations with and found them to be close to home is a little weird. I gave him a beer though and got a tad jealous at the shiny hybrid car he was touring the country in.

At the bridge we met Tim and Jake, plus Jessica the dog, and toasted their hard work with some decent American ale. We then crossed said bridge back into Washington state and took in a very scenic coastal drive towards the small settlement of Maryhill. It contained the first WWI memorial in the U.S and it is actually a replica of Stonehenge, which is ridiculous. I've never seen the original, so it was a little like watching the film before reading the book (heresy!), but the views across the hills and desert compensated. What a crazy country this is where in one week and in one state I can see beaches, forests, rainforests and desert.

Another comfortable (!) sleep in the car and we were soon back in Portland, where I bade fond goodbyes and got back to the hostel. I'm currently chilling, which is more than deserved. I also spoke to my good friend Robbo back home, who's bucking the Chesterfield trend and actually doing something with her life, and moving to China for two years. I'm sure I'm not alone in saying how much she'll be missed, but I look forward to taking this travel blog out to the Far East and going all Karl Pilkington when I have to eat frogs and such. Keep reading, even though I'm hoping the next fee days will mainly involve coffee and relaxation. Tally ho!

Leaving Seattle...

As an excuse to chuck another great picture from my camping adventure, and to stave off the boredom of waiting for my train to Portland, I'm composing another little blog for your pleasure. After departing the ferry and walking two blocks in army-boot agony, I went barefoot again. That's right guys - I've found myself in America and I now walk everywhere barefoot. I'm also a vegan activist and I'm totally pro-Palestine. Funny thing about Seattle was that nobody even gave a second glance to an Englishman walking the city streets in his socks and carrying a khaki sleeping bag.

On my walk home I saw a woman dumpster-diving shamelessly and was encountered by a man with a trolley who wanted my shoes. I was going to gift them to him before he mentioned the queen and then we went our separate ways, both of us presumably with sore feet. When I stumbled back into the room I had paid for and spent about four hours inside I found my locker open, which was a relief in some ways because I thought I would have to cut the bolt, thinking I had mislaid my keys. I didn't check but I'm hoping the i-pod is still in there somewhere but the signs weren't too promising. I also found a Spanish, Canadian and German girl in my room, so I kind of missed the boat there. Nature over nuptials though.

I winged my way out of the hostel, tried to barter with them to hold on to my patriotic looking army bag, failed, and walked out the door. It was then that my rucksack snapped, the little guy having gotten me from ocean to ocean in stiff upper-lip fashion. A bus ride later and I reached the station, realising that my bottle of water from Tim's well had emptied itself inside my broken bag. But I'm here and in one piece; missing the great outdoors but excited to see another new town and to attempt a chilled out, 'Portlandia' lifestyle (please check it out on YouTube - it's that rare combination of "American" and "funny"). Here's a pretty picture and I'll see you in a feminist bookstore in Oregon. Happy holidays!

Gorge-ous!

Terrible title, but it is early in the morning and I've been sleeping in a car. Yes, I'm back on the nature trail with the gang (Tim, Jake, Ash and Jeanie) again. I traded playing uno with some Aussies back in Portland for the Columbia River Gorge, and so far it has been another great decision. This is probably the best stretch of scenery on the trip so far, so I'll give you some background.

I got picked up on the Thursday evening from my Hawthorne hostel but the clouds didn't look too clever, so we stayed the night at Tim's in-law's place. Soon after popping down to a pub for some food and a great stout (if only it was warm!), I was getting to meet a generation of American that I would never have met otherwise. Causal racism aside, it was interesting to hear a different perspective on the second world war, especially with a particularly Christian backdrop. It was just good fortune that I was a polite, white, little Englander.

The next morning Art (the war vet) and his wife Ruth took us out for some amazing pancakes, and after a few delays we were heading out into rural America again. The Columbia River Gorge is basically a lot like the style of 'Twin Peaks': vast mountains, swamped with trees and intersected by flowing rivers and impressive waterfalls. It was a great walk, with log bridges and stepping stones across torrents that rushed by. There were narrow passes where handrails were required to keep your footing and eagles kept an eye on things overhead.

Our goal was to reach the falls, widely considered the most spectacular in the region, and they didn't disappoint. A tunnel cut through the rocks meant you could walk right behind the falls, which tumbled down at a ferocious pace. Even Barefoot Jake got excited. We admired the view for a long time, the six mile hike and the majestic scene both providing ample reason to stay. Then we headed back the way we had come, and soon left Tim and Jake behind; they were being real men and actually camping.

So after another six miles we three were back in the car and picking up the essentials (Pabst Blue Ribbon). Me and Ash grabbed some food at a little bistro in Hood River, and I sampled my first American fish and chips (6 out of 10). Then it was back for beers in the car, which thankfully didn't involve getting mauled by a cougar. Here's a pretty picture of where we were today; if you've got instagram then look me up (adammcculloch23 I believe) and also Ashley Lebedev, if you're into professional photography. Also look up Barefoot Jake's blog - he needs all the friends he can get.

Portlandia!

Well I'm here in the sleepy Hawthorne district of Portland, where horizontal seems to be the aim for most of the folk around here. It is super chill. Cars let you cross at just about every stop, coffee and ale compete for your attention and everyone is terribly dressed. I like it. I'm here for six days though, so it was good to hear that Ash and the crew I went hiking with were heading out to the Columbia Gorge not far from here. So tonight I will be at one with nature once more.

My first day in Portland involved meeting some cool people writer the hostel: Joshua, a philosopher from Colorado and then Travis and Alicia, siblings who had just moved here from New York. We went out for food and some great beer; it was all so relaxing that I could feel myself falling to sleep at the last bar. I didn't seem to be the only one either. Portland has the feeling Amsterdam has got, of not being in a rush and very grounded. Of course, this is coupled with a lot of very liberal views (my barefoot philosophy would go down a treat). I think that it will be a great place to stop off and hang around when me and Alex are on the road.

Today I went out with Travis for a wander around the district. Having just moved from New York, he was similarly taken aback by how relaxed everything was. I grabbed some great coffee and a ginger cookie, strolled in my sandals past bookshops and tattoo parlours, ate some Caribbean food while the hail came down and nobody cared. It's all very relaxed. When I want to write a novel, or raise a family on a diet solely based on cous cous then I will move here. But until Sunday I'm going to do some hiking and keep active. At least I know I'll have somewhere nice to relax into. Plus hopefully the guy in my dorm who is snoring like it's going out of fashion will be gone when I get back. Good night!

The problem with travelling

If you've been reading my blog then you'll know that all these great experiences bring their problems. Whether it's navigating the New York subway in the early hours or walking the streets of Seattle barefoot, it's often a busy experience with little time to reflect.

It's also easy to be negative about the life I have left behind. This country is wonderful and the people I've met wherever I have been have been so good to me. But the real problem with travelling is that things move on without you back home. Sure, look around and some things and certainly some people will remain static, but events, milestones and more can pass by.

This could be a moment shared with friends that you missed out on. It could be a family event, such as my grandma's eightieth birthday last week. Sadly, I have just learned that my Uncle Colin has passed away after a long fight with illness. I am not normally the sort of person to relay this kind of information over the internet, as I feel that grief can often be cheapened and hammed up for the sake of a few "likes" on Facebook and some attention.

However, I feel that while I am on the other side of the globe that respect should be rightly paid to a most incredible man who I will deeply, deeply miss. Despite his sickness he was a man of strong faith and positive outlook. I remember him not in his bed being nursed by his equally wonderful wife, Sheila, but as the always smiling, always laughing uncle who would always be delighted to see you. The feeling would be reciprocated by whoever he would meet.

I think that Colin would have loved to have met some of the people I have come across on my journey. He had such a positive outlook that his warmth would have won him many friends, but in England he was so loved and cherished by all who knew him. His strength and attitude are a true inspiration and as I think of some of the other people I find back home, I wish there were more people like him.

Despite this, he will to me remain unique and magical. I think of the stories he told and the stories I didn't manage to hear, and his peal of a laugh is warm and comforting. I hear it when I imagine telling him some of my own stories. I will miss him and I know that so many others will also, but they can be safe in the knowledge that his life was a true blessing to all those who were a part of it; comforted that he is at peace now.

My love goes to all of my family and anyone who was lucky enough to meet this special man. I think he would have enjoyed this view. R.I.P Colin.

Nature calls...

Apologies for my lack of contact. I had written the previous blog before I set out on our hiking trip but was so rushed that I didn't have time to publish it. The rushing also made me foolishly purchase size ten rather than size eleven boots (you know what they say ladies...) and also the most impractical sleeping bag in the world. But I digress. I took a ferry over Puget Sound to Bainbridge with Ashley and her friend Jeanie. Really were some great views of both the Seattle skyline and the dominating Mt. Ranier, a still active volcano.

When we arrived on the other side, after I had mistakenly tripped up a child on board (honest!), we met Tim, a landscape photographer, keen hiker and wonderful host. Having realised how hideously unprepared we were he fixed us up with some equipment and showed us a local wood with some great trees - a brief taster of what was to come. When we were all set we began to head for the coast, picking up "Barefoot" Jake along the way: a local hiking blogger who was as nice as he was hungover.

After a long drive and taking in some local scenery - including the small town of Forks, where those wonderfully written 'Twilight' books are based - we came to the wilderness beach at Rialto where we were set to spend the night. It was almost dark so we took a mile or so hike along the shore, where driftwood was scattered like confetti across the sand. We found a great camping spot, ate our food and I settled down for the night in my 'Twin Peaks' tent for a cosy nights sleep.

The following day we set off for Cape Johnson, trekking through 'the hole in the wall' and over sharp and sleek rocks that were teeming with crabs and starfish. The weather was great, which is a rare thing in Washington, and I was soon developing that Englishman abroad look (sunburn for want of a better word). We spent most of the day exploring the stretch of beach, and despite it being a Sunday we saw no more than five people all day. Deer ran and courted along the shore while our fire roared, fog drifted in across the treeline and when the conversation died down then only the waves could be heard. My words on a simple blog can't do justice to how beautiful everything was.

After a night where 'Twin Peaks' collapsed in on me and I half slid out my tent, we began the hike back to our car; only after we had watched a giant sea-lion make his way back to the ocean. We were soon heading inland again and on the advice of Barefoot, we took in the altogether different sights of Forks (a sign informed us on the treaty-line that the vampire threat level was still critical. Bella). He took us to a bizarre diner: surrounded by churches, a midget wandered the streets and everyone inside looked a little too familiar. He recommended a breakfast not featured on the menu; southern biscuits, hash browns, egg, sausage gravy, cheese and jalapeno hot sauce. I definitely earned his high-five for finishing it (Rule Brittania!).

I was soon walking off those many, many calories in the Hoh Rainforest. It really was spectacular. Giant trees were draped in liquorice fern and hanging moss, grass snakes wove their way across the trail and the smell of cedar was intoxicating. The blisters I had accumulated meant that I had decided to walk the trail in just my socks and I enjoyed the freedom to move around and feel every stone and stick on the path. We took a lot of photographs, and I realise that this blog won't be able to show off all of them, so check out my instagram account (PLUG ALERT!). I will also hook you up with Ashley's, seeing as she is a wonderful photographer and about as close to competition as I've had when snapping away on my phone.

Eventually we wound our way to a sandy bank on the Hoh river itself, and made our camp for the night. The stars came out and a crescent moon showed itself before sinking behind yet another spectacular mountain. We got a great 'white-man' fire going and also managed to find a tree-stump that was glowing in the dark (termites, nuclear testing or Barefoot's ancestors, we weren't sure. If I come back with gills or the power of flight, that's probably why). It was a really wonderful spot for our last night, and Tim slept under the stars for the full effect.

He probably regretted that decision at around three a.m when the first real rain we had faced hit. 'Twin Peaks' kept me dry as a bone, though, and again I slept soundly. Soon sfr packing up in the drizzle we were hiking again, and again I favoured the Barefoot method. Interestingly Jake, besides singing R. Kelly along the trail, didn't actually walk barefoot. Instead he favoured some interesting shoes that looked more like socks. Just saying. Check his blog out though, because he is a great guy and leads a life in the outdoors that would make many people back home very envious.

We arrived back at the car and found an elk sitting nonchalantly across from us. I rested my weary feet in the car while we winged our way back to Tim's place. Me, Jeanie and Ash then cooked a big meal (including my attempt at southern biscuits, which were more akin to dry scones), and we settled by a warm fire to trade stories and miss the outdoors. It has been a truly fantastic experience, and like most of the great parts of this trip, totally spontaneous. I definitely have to take this space to thank Tim, who as well as being a wonderful photographer is also an incredibly kind and generous host. His guidance and knowledge of the surroundings was priceless.

Our whole group was great though and again I feel sad to be moving on. I'm sat now on the ferry back to Seattle at around seven-thirty in the morning, preparing to collect my stuff and hurrying off to Portland. I don't know what will await me there but a hot shower and hotter coffee would certainly be welcome. As was the case with Chicago, this is a part of the world where I could really see myself at home in. I'll be back in Seattle within a week too to finally meet my fellow traveller, Alex, so all is not lost. I hope you're all well and thanks for your patience while I have been out in the wilderness. I'll write again when I hit Portland and resemble a functioning human being once more. I'll also post those links to more photos as soon as I can. Auf wiedersehn!

Sleepless in Seattle...

Had to use that as a title but it's actually true; it's past six a.m and I'm being responsible and doing some laundry before a trip to the rainforest. But more of that later - here's what else happened on the train.

On the Thursday, after a terrible nights sleep and a chocolate bar for breakfast, I met Ashley. She's a photographer from Minneapolis, and was a great companion for the long journey west through some spectacular scenery. The flat plains of North Dakota soon gave way to mighty Montana, and the mountains in the distance edged ever closer. Even the ridiculous chatter of the train staff on the intercom couldn't spoil things (though constant invites to the dining car got very old, very fast).

Later, we met Evan and others for a sing-song in the viewing car. Amish sat close to what could only be described as hicks, amidst gentle blues and towering ravines. We caught elk grazing on the slopes and spotted the lonely wave of an old man outside his cabin, who looked slightly confused by the train that invaded the serenity. Mountain after mountain clamoured for our attention, each trying to out do the last in terms of the sublime. Of course, the train tannoy system tried as hard as possible to ruin the moment: we favoured a microwave pizza to the privileged invitation of the dining car, where Ashley had earlier sat opposite what can only be described as a neo-Nazi. What a country of contrasts!

Anyways, spiel over we, listened to drunken stories about drunks and train-hops and hobo jungles. I then fell into another uncomfortable sleep; woken up by my neighbour Marylin, the old star offering me a pillow. There was more great scenery to wake up to over a breakfast kit-kat, and I finally came face-to-face with the Pacific Ocean. This soon gave way to the Seattle skyline, which reminded me a little of Liverpool. Before I knew it I was saying my goodbyes and leaving Evan to his dumpster diving (look it up or better still watch 'Portlandia').

A rainy walk through the city bought me to the hostel and some well-earned rest. The place seems great - with a library and movie theatre - but I was soon off on my travels again to meet Ashley and her friend for a great curry in a different part of town. And we're soon going to be off to visit a rainforest a ferry and a bit of a drive awful from Seattle which sounds really incredible. All stocked up with my army sleeping bag and jungle boots and cannot wait to get the chance to see bear, elk and wolves. A really great break from the city lifestyle I have been living.

So again I shall be without internet most likely for two days or so. Don't fret my little blogees though: if I get eaten by a bear then you can probably get a cameo in the film adaptation (or movie, if you're feeling American too). Here's a shot of Glacier National Park to give you an idea - speak soon!

The catch up blog...

Well I guess you're wondering where I've been. No, I didn't die at "porn and chicken" night. I'm currently sailing through the Great Plains, a mere sixteen hours into this mammoth train journey to Seattle. I won't be able to upload this and any other blogs I choose to put up until I reach the city, so I'll give an overview of what I have done.

Monday involved some great bbq and ended with the aforementioned night out. I've been informed by my sister that my blog is starting to move away from the family-friendly fun of earlier posts and now seems to involve me just drinking. Needless to say I didn't drink and I didn't actually eat any chicken on Monday night. If anyone wants to hear any grittier details then please ask me directly, unless I'm out drinking.

Tuesday was a pretty chill day, and ended with a really special Death Cab concert and then "bumping into" some Aussies at the hostel. There were so many great people in Chicago that it was difficult to say goodbye to everyone, but I will definitely be back as soon as possible. Sometimes you really do connect with a place, although it does make you feel as though you're cheating on Chesterfield. I find myself constantly saying to Americans that they simply must visit, be it for the cultured nightlife or the attractive people that frequent the flea market. It's a helluva town and I hope you Chesterfieldians are aware of how lucky you are.

After a bit of rushing around on Wednesday morning, I made my train with time to pick up some provisions. These trains really are full of interesting characters. I've met a musician called Evan, who came on board with a beautiful banjo that he made himself. There was Matt, a trombone player who has played on some cool records including Interpol tracks. He invited me to Minneapolis to show me the scene there, which would be great. There was also Billie-Jean, a forty-four year old woman carrying miniature bottles of rum and a bag of ice, who flashed a car when we hit a stop sign. Of course, I didn't touch the rum nor did I look. There were also some Amish couples playing uno, just because.

Today should be a very scenic route - said deadpan with the American pronunciation - and includes a sunset view of Glacier National Park. Sadly, Billie-Jean will have got off by then (she's not my lover. Hee hee). It will also involve another night sleeping without a pillow. That's right people - out in the states I'm a real man. I've not shaved, I'm using dry shampoo and I'm riding through the plains like a rancher hunting buffalo. Well actually, there's none here anymore, and I would prefer some nice cous-cous anyway.

I'll leave you with a picture of pure Americana: Evan playing his fretless banjo while the Amish sing and destroy each other at uno. Stay safe!

Loop the loop...

I'm doing a blog now because I'm off out to "porn and chicken" night tonight, and dread to think what state I will be in when I return from that. Today has been another nice day in this great city. I met a lovely English couple who have been travelling the world and have now reached our hostel. After some pancakes and tourist information from me I headed downtown.

Went for some food with Jillian before I went on another stroll around the loop: basically the main part of the city centre. Everything looks fantastic and I can't rate highly enough the architecture. I know I'm usually going for the funny blog angle but it really is that good. I ended up walking by the lake, again with a beautiful view to look out on. Added to that the friendly people you meet then you're talking about a good combination.

So tonight is going to be a pretty heavy one, although I am feeling a bit rough and full of cold so we'll see how that turns out. On the plus side, 'Evil Olive,' the club where the night is held, is really close to our neighbourhood so it should be an easy stumble home. Tomorrow, I'm off to the aquarium and then seeing Death Cab - a great end to a great stay in a great city. I've taken no pictures today so I'll dig out something out of the blue. Much love.

Beers and blues!

Saturday's antics didn't stop after an all night drinking session; me and my new buddy from Manchester, Michael, headed out for noodles and then did a load of bars in the area we're staying at. It's very hipster (so very Adam McCulloch) and one live band we saw were so tight live. This might be hard to believe but the local bands here are better than those at home (bombshell right there).

We then headed over to the Lincoln Park area, which was cooler than the band. Met a lot of really nice people and despite being caught in the rain we had a lot of fun. We then headed back to the Damen area and partied till about six a.m. I then woke up at about eight o'clock on a sofa surrounded by the older residents of this hostel making breakfast. There's a Japanese woman who looks about a hundred and keeps giving me dirty looks, so I assume that drunken Englishmen aren't too popular over there. She must be so ronery (racism alert).

Today - well Sunday really because it's about two in the morning on Monday - I headed downtown, met a girl from Hawaii and ate a deep dish pizza, which is a fantastic hangover cure by the way. Then I had a mooch around the lake, which really is pretty. I could totally get into this city life, all drinking ice tea in the day and going out all night. I'm dreading drinking horlicks back in Chesterfield, believe me.

I met Michael again for some more noodles and then we bumped into a few Brits we'd already met at the hostel. We ended up having some drinks and heading to the Memphis Kings blues bar. Incredible musicianship; heard probably the best harmonica solo ever and also an awesome bassist. They also had a "booty call" competition where all the best girls in the club had to shake their arse (saying "ass" is still wrong) to the music. Wow is all I can say. Who can complain at a city where you can go out on a Sunday night and decide whether Ukrainian or Brazilian arses are best, over a blues soundtrack and complete with beers out of an ice bucket? God bless you America and presume for now that I will probably not return home.

Sweet home, Chicago!

I'm still on the train so thought I'd make a start on today's blog a little earlier than usual. It's about eight o'clock in the morning here and the train has just coasted past Gary, Indiana, which is the town where Michael Jackson was born (knew that off the top of my own head you know!) I've been up a while in the lounge where you can get a better view of things: these trains really are massive, and I'm on the top deck.

We've passed a pretty good mix of America. There have been pretty shabby small towns that are littered with fast food places. It probably explains the fact that by far the highest concentration of fat people I've seen on my travels have been on this train. Still, they're making me look good. I've seen yellow school buses driving around typically American neighbourhoods. I've seen trailer parks with tattered flags and old speed boats on the lawn. I saw wild deer running through the woods but in a blink of an eye gigantic industrial estates, steel factories and yards filled with thousands of scrapped vehicles take over.

The sights on the train are just as interesting, though it hasn't been too social; probably due to the fact that most of the journey has been at night. I've seen quite a few Amish on here and one bumped into me while I was writing last night. That doesn't happen on my usual Chesterfield to Leeds commute! There have been typical American tourists, guys with "Jesus loves you" on their hats, and the only snore I heard was from a giant black girl sat close to me.

Anyways, after all that I reached the city and, after the fairly small-scale Washington, I was back into true skyscraper territory. Chicago is a BIG city. There're tall buildings but it's also very spread out. I got a feeling for that as I did my best hobo impression, cornering people on the street with a giant bag and asking for where the nearest shelter was. Well I found it, after a moment of panic where I thought I had been ripped off and been given the address for an abandoned building. And I'm here now on the Friday night, loving this city. Like Philly it has definitely been a case of coming in with low expectations and then being blown away.

I'm grabbing a shower before going out and doing an all nighter so I can watch the Everton game at half six in the morning. So I will cover all my Chicago adventures in one super blog tomorrow (hangover permitting). For now here's a picture of what the city has to offer.

All aboard the Capitol Limited!

Here marks a new step in my American adventure, as I board the first of (at least) three trains and as I leave the east coast behind. I've had a great time these past ten days or so but I'm looking forward to getting some new perspectives on this crazy country.

Washington has been another pleasant surprise, not least because of the cool people I've met. After saying some goodbyes, I headed into the city and checked in my bag. It seems to be growing with each new city I come to, but hopefully my waist line isn't going the same way. I then headed to the Museum of the American Indian, seeing as they were closed when me and Brian tried to get in yesterday. I don't know if that Scientology stuff had opened my mind, or if I've just turned into an American sap, but I was getting really into the native culture. I was watching this guy drumming for ages, and I'm surprised I didn't end up missing my train by going to look for a wigwam.

After all that excitement I headed off for the station and to experience the "rail" America (that worked better in my head but I'm sleepy). I'm currently in the middle of nowhere, having passed through some fantastic scenery in West Virginia and Maryland, and now I think I'm somewhere on the approach to Pittsburgh. It's pretty dark now though so not a lot to see. Had a nice chat with the guy next to me, a Greek/American called Paul. He seemed pretty keen to visit England and see some countryside so for once I've actually been talking us up a bit. I've also taught him to pronounce Derbyshire the way we do. I'm such a good samaritan!

But from what I've heard from him and others, I should have a sweet time in Chicago. And apparently the views on my next train are even better than this one. Have a picture of the ridiculously good waffle I had for breakfast and...sayonara!

I'm in...the Church of Scientology!

When I say "in" I do mean inside their Washington headquarters - I'm not rich or stupid enough to actually sign up. I'll fill in some blanks as to how I ended up here.

I took a stroll downtown with Brian to go and have a look at what was going on around the mall in D.C. After getting through some of the expected security that seems to greet you everywhere here (so glad I didn't bring my turban), we got into the Holocaust Museum...only to find you had to sign up the day before. They still let us in to see a really interesting exhibit on propaganda which appealed to me, though it brought with it the also familiar sight of Asian tourists streaming past while you tried to read something. Chip in if I'm starting to sound racist.

I grabbed a can of Pabst Blue Ribbon (watch 'South Park' to get an idea) and a pork sandwich at an "Irish" pub - the first place to question me on my I.D. What are the odds! Annoyingly, Liverpool scored a last minute goal on the T.V while I was there, but less of that. We then tried to get into the Museum of the American Indian, but we got kicked off  ofthe reservation (it was after half five).

And then on a slow stumble back to Adams Morgan we found it, home of Tom Cruise and many more: the Washington D.C Church of Scientology. After watching a few films in the lavish settings we asked Betty - a very friendly lady who bought me some bottled water - a few questions. Sad to report we heard no crazy stuff about aliens and volcanoes. What we did hear was a very basic idea of human psychology, that was packaged for gullible people willing to spend money to attain some kind of peace with themselves and the world.

We were even asked to do some personality tests and it turns out that I'm anxious and critical. Personally I thought that Betty was talking rubbish, but then I got really nervous about hurting her feelings (think you see what I'm trying to get at, but it's late at night over here). Some incredible falafel and a few buds settled things down and that's pretty much D.C. It's a cool place but a lot less relaxed than other places on the east coast. Well worth a visit though!

Off to Chicago on the train tomorrow so I'll try and get a brief blog in tomorrow if I discover wi-fi anywhere. If not I'll see you there. Keep reading!

P.s. the picture is of some protesters/drunks we met who are doing a sleeping demo on the street. Nice!

Easy D.C

Yesterday was a great day, and showed why it was definitely worth having a few days in the American capital. I met a lad called Brian in the hostel, who is undertaking a trip that has me very jealous. Starting in his home town of Fort Collins, Colorado, he is biking around the perimeter of the U.S.A. That's right, the whole shebang. He's already crossed Texas, Florida and more and he's now heading up the East coast. I've totally been put in my place.

We both went down to the White House initially. It's pretty cool to say you've been but it is what it is: a house that's white. More interesting was a woman who has camped across the street protesting nuclear weapons since 1981! She wasn't actually sat there when we walked past; some hippies were looking after it while she went to a nearby cafe for a shower. A much more interesting Washington residence in my opinion. Probably stinks inside though.

Around the city you are treated to a slew of sights. There's the giant Washington memorial which is very big, very phallic and very American. There's the more impressive Lincoln Memorial, which gave some great views of the city and with a more poignant message. There's also various war memorials, which I guess is to be expected with America - World War II, the Korean War and Vietnam. There's statues of war generals on just about every street, most of whom I don't know, and even a memorial to Albert Einstein. All around were memorials and Asian people taking photos of them, most bizarre being the smiling Koreans at the Korean War memorial. They were probably looking for the Hard Rock Cafe.

Perhaps the most interesting area was the Arlington Cemetery, resting place to thousands of fallen soldiers and containing the remains of JFK. Americans can be a bit sentimental but this is one tragedy that really was and remains tragic. Just as moving was the Tomb of the Unknown soldier, where one lonely guard patrolled the mausoleum - much like the old lady patrolled the gates of the White House, both seemingly suspended in time. (You might note the use of parallels there - that English degree is really getting its money's worth).

Food is never far from the mind in America, and Brian had a tip from some jazz singer he met about a place called 'Ben's Chili Bowl.' What a find! Completely off of the tourist trail, it was a black-owned and operated diner specialising in 'half-smokes' (fat hot dogs essentially) that are covered in onions, mustard and some incredible chili. Better still were the famous patrons of this place. Bill Cosby got to eat there for free, but even cooler was the big picture of Obama laughing away in the restaurant. It's apparently one of his favourite places in the city and he even bought that French idiot Sarcozy there. I washed it down with some sweet tea, which is iced tea...but sweeter. As an Englishman I should have hated it but it worked a treat.

After finding an ice-cream place that did cake batter flavour - as good as it sounds - we wandered the city and took in more sights. Some, such as Ford's Theatre where Lincoln was assassinated, were a little too touristy, but there were enough interesting buildings and local nutters to keep us occupied. Again, I would recommend a visit here; the amount I covered in one day shows how compact it is and easy to get around. And I'll say again: 'Ben's Chili Bowl.'

Today I'm off to see some of the Smithsonian museums, which are all brilliant and best of all...free! Keep reading away while you can, because you'll have a day without me when I take a nice and easy seventeen-hour train to the Windy City!

My blog has broken :(

Well kind of. I tried to put one up last night but the internet in this new place is terrible, so it seems to be floating around somewhere in cyber space. In case I can't get it back, here's a brief idea of what I did yesterday:

1. I caught the bus to D.C.
2. I got off the bus and found my hostel.
3. I chilled out for a bit.
4. I met a lad from Leeds who is doing a similar trip and has a blog (I'll link you up when I've got the chance).
5. I slept.

It was a pretty poor effort all told so if it's lost then you're not missing much. I've got two full days here in the capital so I think it's going to be two pretty heavy days of sightseeing more than anything else.

Sorry I've not got anything better right now, but here's another picture for your pleasure. I'll have something good to say tonight hopefully!

And so you get an idea...

Here is that world-famous sandwich. Drool in unison.

Philly loaded!

Well I'm just about to fall asleep after a busy time down in Philadelphia. Last night I saw the nightlife - from the "first Friday" gallery openings to one of the best pubs I've ever been in, 'The Khyber Pass.' It was a great night and met a whole host of people; an Aussie public servant, a Brooklyn music agent and a couple from Manchester (to be fair to them they guessed my accent as "Sheffield"). All in all some really cool people in a cool place, and the hostel kindly gave us free beer all night before we went out. No complaints!

I woke up with a bit of a sore head but eventually surfaced and took in some proper sights. The Liberty Bell and the area where the Declaration of Independence were created were all really interesting and a bit of a surprise to be honest. When I planned this trip, I never really looked into Philadelphia so much and that's probably why it has been such an enjoyable stop, because of my low expectations. And cheesesteak, but more of that later.

After that I took a long stroll to the Museum of Art. I was originally only going to go there to run up the steps like Rocky and shout "Adrian!!!" - which I did, albeit quietly - but everyone I spoke to raved about it. Again, I was pleasantly surprised by the size of the place and quality of the art on offer. My blog has been a bit silly up to now so I won't suddenly start waxing lyrical about Picasso but I would definitely recommend the museum a visit if art is your thing.

In the evening I had one last mission to accomplish in my short time here - to eat a Philly cheesesteak sandwich. They are available all over but 'Pat's King of Steaks' are the most famous so I headed through some pretty dicey neighbourhoods to find it. If I could ever impregnate a sandwich it would have been this one. Layers of tender steak "wit" onions and using "wiz" cheese (I'm not going mad, that's how you have to say it. "Wiz" is basically melted cheese sauce). It was $9 of pure bliss and worth the flight here alone.

So all in all Philly has been the first surprise package of my trip. Now it's off to Washington to see what the nation's capital has to offer. Keep reading y'all!

In defence of "my town"

Because I'm waiting to go out, and because I'm shattered, you're getting another blog. But it's not the usual deal. I'm going to do something I believe has never been done before in writing: I'm going to try and tell you what Chesterfield has, that New York has not.

Why am I doing this? Well some of you may have read my Facebook status last night. If you haven't then the general gist was that people were talking about a Thursday night "out in town" and I was meanwhile somewhere far better. My exact words were "I am worth so much more than you right now."

I still think I'm right, of course, because this is my blog and what I say goes. BUT although Chesterfield is not the coolest of nights out, it does have some redeeming features...

1. Central Park is great but it doesn't have 'Frederick's' ice-cream. Or tramps trying to fish by throwing logs in the water.
2. Chesterfield has a flea market. Nuff said.
3. The beer in New York is colder. Some people like that but they are wrong. And not an old man like me.
4. Tickets to go to a show on Broadway can set you back about $150, yet for under a tenner there's fun to be had at the 'Pomegranate.'
5. Royal butler Paul Burrell is from Chesterfield. Not done my research but pretty sure no royal butlers are living in the Big Apple.
6. In New York, you are expected to tip constantly. A dollar a drink is the norm. In Chesterfield you can drink alcohol out of a fishbowl.

That's six to be going on with. If anyone can think of any more then please get in touch (I'm not going to read them but the offer is there). But if there's one thing Chesterfield has that New York hasn't got then it's this little lady. Miss you Rose.

Farewell, New York!

Some things never last - and it was with a heavy heart that I said goodbye to the city, or as I've just decided to call it, 'Adam's Apple.' After a busy day yesterday, I set out with my huge bag on my back and took a long walk through Central Park, a Columbian goodbye (not a euphemism) ringing in my ears. It was a gorgeous day today but sadly I had to rush off, though not before I had bought a nice bottle of fruit juice and then smashed it on the floor. It was basically the age old case of buckaroo.

Before I left the city I had one mission left accomplished. No, not to try on every dress in Macy's (I did that). Instead, I went to 'Lindy's' diner on 7th Avenue for probably the best cheesecake in the world. Carrying the weight of a seventy-five litre bag and pudding-stuffed belly I made my way to the bus. My mum texted me today and said "Heard you're tired - be extra careful." Ah Pristine Christine, truer words were never spoken. But rather than listening I ended up being forced to get off the bus at 30th Street rather than 6th Street. It wasn't a total disaster but did mean I had to walk for over an hour until I found the hostel.

It all looks pretty good so far, and from what I've seen of Philly (as I'm now allowed to call it), it seems a pretty cool place with a lot more history than I realised. I'm going on some gallery tour and drinking session the hostel is putting on tonight, then I'll try and cram as much in as possible tomorrow, seeing as though I've got to be up pretty early to get to Washington. So long!

A bridge too far (away for you to come visit)

I'm sat on the opposite side of the river, sunning my hangover away in Brooklyn Bridge Park. The view is stunning. From the Statue of Liberty on my left to the Empire State Building on my right, everything is big, bright and beautiful (a bit like me in my youth).

Last night I ended up in this karaoke bar in Soho after one too many pitchers and whiskies. Karaoke isn't usually my scene, what with me being a music snob, talented artist and totally modest, but I thought I might as well do a gig while I'm in New York. Seeing as I was wearing my Beatles T-shirt I plumped for 'Come Together,' before finishing off with my American favourite, 'California.' Needless to say Jay-Z was passing by, I've just been signed, I'm seeing Beyonce behind his back and I'm a total coke fiend.

I've heard of eating greasy food, of ice baths, of drinking even more, but I think the ultimate hangover cure is to sit in this beautiful park, looking across at this beautiful city and writing all about it for beautiful people like you. Keep reading!

And wait, there's more...

Here's a picture of me and Tom, just before I submitted these blogs in a decrepit state...after a night in Soho.

Ferry nice day...

Apologies for the title. And also apologies to anyone who had the displeasure of finding some rare McCulloch spelling mistakes in my last blog; my excuse is that I was half asleep. Hopefully it was a one-off.

Putting grammar aside for now then (sorry to all my geeks out there!), I'll tell you what I did today. I got up at six o'clock - yeah, you heard - so that I could get a subway down to South Ferry. To anyone who got a bus to Stavely today, I win. Anyway, I was there to catch a ferry, surprisingly, as well as to eat an amazing sandwich and drink coffee by the water beforehand. I'll not put a picture of that up today because I don't want to be that guy (James Louis Grayson if anyone is interested in specifics).

So after demolishing that and going through some pretty heavy security, it was all aboard and off to Liberty Island aka where the Statue of Liberty is. Must say, being up close to it it's really not that impressive. I mean, it's not crooked or anything (this is a blog so I can't say "owt" like I want to). (Whoops, I just did). No, though I do love my spire, Lady Liberty probably just scrapes a battle of the monuments. It really does take your breath away, and as you can see from my picture, puts a smile on your face.

After walking around and checking out a big, green woman for a while I caught the ferry to the next stop - the immigrant hub of Ellis Island. For someone who has been to his fair share of museums (I still don't know why I'm single...), this one is right up there. I definitely recommend it to anyone who visits the city, and that is without the bonus many get by looking up their ancestors on the giant wall of names that snakes around the grounds. Every exhibit was interesting, from the great hall where twelve million people first encountered the American dream to the graffiti they left behind.

After that I took the ferry back to Manhattan to get a closer look at the new 'Freedom Tower' on the site of the former World Trade Centre. It's an absolute giant of a building and it's not even finished yet. And now, all showered and pretty, I'm sat in 'Island Burgers and Shakes,' gulping down the latter and reflecting on a top day in the city. Adios readers!

A little of last night and a little of today

Well my quiet night last night actually ended up getting rather interesting. I had a stroll around the block (oh just listen to me already!) and sauntered to Central Park, and worked up a thirst. Found a pub on Amsterdam Avenue called 'The Dead Poet,' which is a good name all told, so settled down for a pint of Guiness. Not sure why because I don't even drink it at home but it seemed right.

To cut a long story short I got talking to two teachers, Ben and Josh, and after a few whiskys and ales we ended up back at Ben's place. We had some tequila and chilled out on his balcony overlooking the park and that incredible New York skyline (I realise this story sounds like it's going somewhere horrible but it isn't). It was a totally spontaneous evening and a lot of thanks must go to Ben's lovely wife, Tracey, who treated us so nicely despite the fact Ben brought me home from a bar. The subway near Harlem would have been terrifying sober but luckily I was ok and didn't end up a dead poet myself.

I woke up with a bit of a sore heard and ented up spending nearly all the day in Central Park, in the sunshine. I also had this fantastic 'Buffalo Bang' wrap, which contained chips, onion rings, bacon, mozzarella cheese and breaded chicken. When I returned home later this evening my dorm was empty, but soon enough a Columbian family had moved in. They were really friendly and gave me a beer as soon as they arrived. Obviously everyone I meet  wants me to be an alcoholic...

Why howdy y'all!

Yeah that's right...the travel blog just became a real travel blog because I'm in New York! I'm pretty tired because I've been travelling all day so nothing particularly exciting has happened as of yet. I did get lost on the subway and felt pretty darn white for quite a while. Luckily I escaped and I'm now at my hostel listening to a German couple have a marital (you can take the Germans out of Germany or some other badly worded stereotype of that ilk).

I'm popping out for a beer with a lad called Tom later. He's a classically trained singer from Seattle so I've already been upstaged. Other than that it'll probably be a quiet one for me I reckon. Anyone who thought they were signing up for some rollercoaster ride of a blog may stop reading now.

Peace little Englanders!

A bit more info (Part II)

This is NOT an April Fool's; yes, today really is my last full day in sunny Chesterfield until June 8th (cue mass outpouring of grief). Last night I did a final tour of the Chesterfield night life scene for a while, and I know that when I'm drinking a beer by the beach in California I will be wishing that I was back in Association, being stared at by lads with lads wearing shirts that are too tight. But in all seriousness for a moment there will be people I shall miss. It's not a long time away but a massive thumbs up to friends and family who have been so supportive, particularly over the last few stressful months.

Anyway, here's a rough idea of what I'll be doing for the second month of my stay; readers from yesterday's post will obviously have been on tenterhooks since then. After my stay in Portland I will be briefly heading north again to the town of Bellingham, the last real place of interest before the Canadian border. There I'll meet my good friend Alex Stevens, who has been working at a ski resort in Canada for the past six months or so. We have already bought a nice, tasty 4x4 (see above), which we have already nicknamed Darl, and she will be our home on the road for just over a month.

Once we've done some crazy kind of bromance ritual to celebrate the end of our separation, we're going to be heading down the Pacific Highway, taking in the sights of Washington and Oregon. We'll then be heading into California. We've not made any firm plans yet but some places we'll definitely want to go to are the Redwoods National Park, Yosemite National Park and eventually San Francisco. After that we both fancy touring some Steinbeck country - Monterey Bay, Salinas and the Salinas Valley - before making our way down to L.A.

We'll be hanging around there for a while no doubt, and my sis might be flying out to meet us for her birthday. After that we're going to head to San Diego for a bit of relaxing on the beach and perhaps a quick trip across the Mexican border (ariba!). Then we start to make our way back north - not sure which route we are taking but we'll hopefully see some different sights on the way back up. Our flight back is on the 6th June from Vancouver which means we get to see some of Canada as well (guessing it's basically going to be like an episode of 'South Park'). And that's it! We'll be selling the car just before we leave, hopefully coming back in one piece and not in loads of debt. And hopefully I've not eaten so many ribs that I need to buy two seats on the plane home.

Speaking of planes, I'm not a great flyer, and of course they would give me seat 13D for my flight out. Muamba seems to be getting better so if you have any spare prayers lying about, feel free. Adios and speak to you stateside very soon!