Coloane.

Thursday night was spent recovering from the sights of hundreds of fish being butchered...by eating sushi. I then helped Soph and her friends put up the Christmas tree in their flat. Listening to Buble and drinking sherry is a little surreal so far from home, it must be said. I have been surprised at the number and scale of the Christmas decorations in Asia, especially in Thailand. I guess over here they just call Father Christmas "Ho". Or Jin Gul Bell. Or something else that isn't funny. 

I actually had a kind of lie in on Friday morning. Well earned I would say. I scuttled off to my last unvisited area of Macau, the old town of Coloane. It was supposed to be a lot quieter and more Portugese in influence, and so far it hasn't disappointed. Soph had time to join me for coffee and croissant before shooting back to work, leaving me to explore. It is a small area - the odd temple or chapel, small back-street cafés, dogs sleeping in shady alleys. It definitely makes a pleasant change from the melee that was Three Lamps yesterday. 

And yet staring across the water from me is mainland China. A little more than a stone's throw but not by much. Technically I am already in China: Macau is classed as an S.A.R (Special Administrative Region), as is Hong Kong. It is controlled by China but has it's own currency and a certain degree of independence. In some ways I am getting a China-lite experience. Yet with the sheer popularity of gambling means that a huge number of mainland Chinese are here. Soph told me before that they are limited to visiting twice a year, so that they don't waste too much money. 

As if to remind me of the fact that I am actually in China, whilst kind of saying that I wasn't, a ridiculous number of fireworks just blew up next to the temple I was sitting by. Nobody batted an eyelid. I assume it was some kind of funeral or wedding tradition. But it certainly killed the solitude. I'm not one for blogging about stereotypes but generally Chinese people are loud. And I mean loud. I'm hoping for a quiet flight home via Munich but it won't happen. Guess I will need to knock back the free wine again. 

A strange old woman with a face like old fruit came up to me while I was sitting, and put her hand out. She said "no tea." I really hope she wasn't a prostitute. I moved further down the water and a man was chattering away to himself. As you can see there is little peace. 

I did explore more of the old village. I tried some of the local food; Lord Stow's bakery is an institution famous for its egg custard tarts, and very nice they were too. After some more wandering I went to Nga Tim's Cafe, recommended by Andy for its salt and pepper squid. Very nice! It certainly prepared me for a bus jammed full of Chinese men. It was so unpleasant I got off early and walked past the casinos lit up at night. They have certainly gone all out for Christmas. 

I decided to be boring and have a beer back at Soph's tonight. I am watching the show again this Saturday night, and will get to see the full spectacle for the first time. Only four nights till I am back to the cool embrace of Manchester.