Chiang Mai/Traditional Thai Massage.

For those of you readers who want me to do all the depraved, disgusting, Englishman-in-the-Orient sort of deeds...I had a traditional Thai massage. It was my first full day in Chiang Mai, the wind was in my sails - why not? Except by traditional I am not referring to "sucky sucky 50 baht/you big American G.I/happy ending." I mean the biggest woman I have seen in Thailand, hands like dustbin lids, a chip on her shoulder and a knee dug deep into mine as reward. 

She started on the legs. They feel alright now but at the time I thought that I was going to lose them. She told me to relax, clearly picking up on my anguish. If she had offered me a happy ending, I would have rolled over and bit the pillow. It was that kind of massage. She walked on my back. She performed a crippler cross face that Chris Benoit would have shuddered at. Four times. It was a relaxing massage because at the end of that anything will be relaxing. 

I do feel loose now though. That might be the Chang going down smooth as much as anything. It's also a general effect of being in Chiang Mai, which is bustling but feels like Tideswell on a Tuesday night compared to Bangkok. We are staying with Soph's friend Andy, along with his wife Hilary and daughter Molly. They are all great and it has made a nice change to have someone to show us around a little. We spent Sunday night drinking Chang, ending up in a downbeat, Rasta-themed rooftop bar. Taking off your shoes before you go inside a place for a drink is a novelty but one that definitely adds to the easygoing feel. The small snatchings of Thai food I have sampled have all been great too. 

I headed off into town today on the songthaew; it's a cross between a bus and a taxi, where you hop on with others and try to get as close as you can to your destination. Having negotiated it with Andy with ease, I managed to end up in another part of town. I was saved by a girl sat next to me, who I assumed was about twelve owing to her braces but turned out to be a nurse. She pointed me in the right direction and after a wander I met Ben and Soph. 

We had heard good things about a temple on one of the mountains around the city, so took a taxi to Doi Suthep. At first we thought the driver was ripping us off but for about £4 each, including an entry fee, he took us on a winding ride through the trees and high above Chiang Mai, waited for us while we visited the temple and then met us to drive us back. The temple itself was busy but magnificent. Buddhism as always been that religion that even a staunch Atheist like myself can like a little bit. Sitting barefoot and watching the world go by is all good in my eyes. The views were spectacular as well. 

As for now, I am sat in a German sports bar. Purely to charge my phone, because I'm assuming I will end up overpaying for this Chang. It definitely feels like a relaxing way to end a madcap dash across Vietnam and now Thailand. I see a lot of similarities with the north-west of Thailand and the north-west of the U.S. There is general feeling of calm, the mountains surrounding the city, the backpackers aimlessly lolling around in baggy trousers. I like it. It feels a million miles away from Bangkok; the capital is on lock-down as protests spread and anger builds. And then there are the prostitutes. 

P.s special mention to my Buddist bud Tom from San Francisco who kept the flight here interesting.